Part 21 - Ben Sherman x
“Looking good isn’t important, it’s everything” x
“Always embracing the new and the different” x
1925 was to be a pivotal year for Subcultures, especially for the future formative years of Mods, Skinheads, Rudeboys, Casuals, Brit-Poppers et al, in the revolutionary, iconic form of innovative Ben Sherman, who was born Arthur Benjamin Sugarman (Jewish), via Cult-Classic Seaside Resort, Brighton.
Passionately driven and devoutly hungry for a different world, in business and in life, he artistically/ambitiously sought an exciting adventure, in the heart and soul of America, craving unique promise and new found hope, keeping “Ben” and altering his surname to “Sherman”, at the age of 20.
This further solidified his place, in his fresh surroundings, in San Fernando, California, where he would raise his own Family, working under his highly influential Father-In-Law, at a clothing manufacturing company.
Sadly, his Mother fell ill, relocating himself and his family, back to Brighton, where he would rent a factory, in Bedford Square.
Using his highly developed skills, he began making shirts for others, on a very personal level.
Suddenly, he would go on to have a creative master-stroke, in 1963.
Heavily sparked by John Brooks (inventor of the immaculate Button Down Shirt, inspired by a 19th Century game of Polo, to prevent collars flapping), Bernard Gantmacher (of Gant fame, making Button Down Shirts his own) and the Swinging Sixties Jazz Scene, which exploded as far as Japan,
(think Miles Davis wearing Button Down, Oxford Shirts, in his Princeton Ivy League Style Get-Up, giving further preppy influence to the ilk of Ralph Lauren et al), the button tab/locker hoop/box pleat shirt design, with a woven label to the chest pocket, took vast shape, (notoriously ordering a million yards of Cloth), coming individually boxed; a real novelty at the time, especially bright pastel stripes and gingham/madras checks, adding to the sheer allure of their unpredictable, unusual rarity.
Then came a Showroom, on Carnaby Street, in 1964 and the first Store, in Brighton, in 1967, for the Global Company.
With all that in mind, combining Jazz/Soul, with sharp Italian tailoring,
The Mods (*Modernists) took on precise fashion like no tomorrow and utilised Ben Sherman, as their smart statement of rebellion. (NB - *Quadrophenia, Franc Roddam, 1979).
Bands such as The Who/The Small Faces et al, added to the Ben Sherman look and the soundtrack of their youth, considerably.
NB - *Gingham stems from Malaysia, meaning *Striped, based on a dyeing technique, where the yarn is dyed, before being woven.
Manchester took the dyeing technique for Check Shirts, as The North had a mighty financial crash, in The 18th Century, to improve the end line, hence Gingham being the Check Pattern Style, we know and love, today.
Sharp/Smart thread identity,
Ben Sherman and Gingham also went perfectly hand in hand with the Ska/Rocksteady/Reggae/Dancehall/Two-Tone Movements, tying in majestically with other rebellious characters, in the emblematic form of Skinheads & Rudeboys. (NB - *This Is England, Shane Meadows, 2006).
They were then led down another authentically cultural treat, by the Black & Orange label, Ben Sherman (affectionately nicknamed “Bennies”) sights and sounds of Mod Revival outfit The Jam, Madness, The Specials et al.
Another euphoria charged, Ben Sherman brand led Movement; arguably the last seismic Subcultural shift, that occurred in the 90’s, which sadly Ben himself never got to see, as he retired in 1987, to Australia and died aged 62 (R.I.P.), was Brit-Pop, massively fuelled by Green label, Ben Sherman advocates, Oasis and Blur, which coincided heavily, with The Casuals Movement.
Whatever the Cultural allegiance, whether it was/is paired with Suits, Crombies, Harringtons, Cardigans, Designer Jackets et al - All of these vital Youth Movements communicate a volubly loud language, as they all had/have the key ingredients of relevantly classic, Ben Sherman’s, wonderful roots and heritage, included in a beautiful mixture, that can all be traced back to each other, such is the staple brand’s amazing legacy and the special man, behind it all.
“Music, Football and Clothes” - Ben Sherman champion, Paul Weller.
Button Up. Buckle Up.
Live and Breathe Subcultures.
Live and Breathe, The Original Ben Sherman x